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Walks: The Rumps

Here’s a longer circular walk that links Port Isaac, Port Quin, and the dramatic headland of The Rumps. It’s one of the best “big scenery in a single loop” hikes in north Cornwall, combining cliff paths, hidden valleys, and exposed granite headlands.

Think of it as three natural sections: coast out → wild headland loop → inland return.



Circular hike: Port Isaac → Port Quin → The Rumps → return loop

Distance: ~10–13 miles (16–21 km)

Time: 4.5–6.5 hours (with stops)


Difficulty: Moderate to challenging (long distance + exposed cliffs)

Terrain: Coast path, grassy headlands, farm tracks, uneven clifftops



Step-by-step “map style” route

1. Port Isaac → Port Quin (Coastal approach)


Start: Port Isaac harbour

Leave Port Isaac uphill following South West Coast Path (Polzeath direction)

Climb out via village lanes and steps to reach clifftops

Follow cliff edge west above Port Isaac Bay

Continue along undulating coastal path for ~2.5–3 miles


Key terrain:

Steep initial climb

Exposed grassy cliff tops

Wide Atlantic views


Arrive: Port Quin (hidden cove in valley below cliffs)



2. Port Quin → The Rumps (Headland traverse)

From Port Quin, stay on South West Coast Path heading north-west

Climb out of the valley and continue along increasingly rugged cliffs

Pass small inlets and open pastureland above the sea

Follow signs towards Polzeath / Pentire Headland


After ~2–3 miles, the land narrows into a dramatic finger of rock:


The Rumps (Pentire Headland):

Twin rocky headlands jutting into the Atlantic

Ancient Iron Age fort earthworks visible on approach

Sheer drops on three sides, with powerful surf below


This is the most dramatic section of the walk—windy, exposed, and extremely scenic.



3. The Rumps → inland return via Pentire Farm track

From The Rumps:

Leave the headland and head south-east away from the cliffs

Follow inland footpaths across Pentire farmland

Pass through rolling fields and hedged lanes

Aim for the area above Polzeath


This section is calmer and more sheltered after the exposed coast.



4. Polzeath → Port Isaac return leg (inland coastal loop closure)

From the inland paths above Polzeath, follow signs back toward Port Isaac

Use a mix of:

farm tracks

bridleways

quiet lanes

Gradually curve south-east back toward the coast

Rejoin coastal slope above Port Isaac Bay

Final descent returns you to Port Isaac



Route summary

• Port Isaac

⬇️ coastal climb

• Port Isaac cliffs

⬇️ west along cliffs

• Port Quin (hidden valley cove)

⬇️ north along coast

• The Rumps (wild headland)

⬇️ inland farmland tracks

• Polzeath hinterland

⬇️ lanes + fields loop south-east

• Port Isaac return



What makes this loop special


1. Three completely different landscapes

Fishing village energy at Port Isaac

Hidden “folded valley” isolation at Port Quin

Raw Atlantic headland drama at The Rumps


2. Constant shifts in scale

The walk moves between:

tight village streets

enclosed valleys

vast cliff-edge horizons


3. Strong geological storytelling

You literally trace Cornwall’s structure:

slate cliffs → eroded valleys → granite headlands



⚠️ Practical notes

Wind exposure: especially between Port Quin and The Rumps

Navigation: clear in good weather, but inland return paths are less obvious than coast path

Footwear: proper hiking boots recommended (mud + uneven stone)

No services en route: carry water and food

Tide irrelevant for route, but sea views are better mid-to-high tide

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